Hearty dishes sophisticated enough for the city

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Cover a medium sheet pan with kosher salt to a depth of about 1/4 inch. Place the beets on the salt, evenly spaced, and lightly drizzle with some of the oil. Place in the oven to bake for 30 minutes, or until done (check by inserting the tip of a sharp knife or a metal skewer into a beet; if you encounter no resistance, the beets are done).

Remove the beets from the oven, transfer to a platter, and allow them to cool. Peel the beets by hand while still warm but easy to handle. Cut them in large chunks, place them in a bowl, sprinkle with tarragon, lemon juice, and olive oil to taste. Add a generous portion of cracked black pepper. Toss lightly and serve.

Marinate the lamb shanks
Place the cumin, coriander, curry powder, rosemary, thyme, garlic, and pepper in a small mixing bowl, and stir to combine well. Stir in 6 tablespoons of the oil to make a paste. Season the paste with 1 tablespoon salt. Rub the lamb shanks with the spice rub, place them in a dish, and cover with plastic wrap (or place in a large re-sealable plastic bag), and refrigerate overnight.

Brown and braise the lamb shanks
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Wipe the spice paste from the shanks with a paper towel and discard. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. (Choose a pan that is large enough to hold the shanks in a single snug layer, or use a separate larger roasting pan for braising.) Working in batches if necessary, brown the shanks on all sides, about 20 minutes. Wipe out the skillet. (It is important to discard any burned spices.)

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil with the celery, onion, and carrot, and cook over medium heat until the vegetables begin to soften and brown, about 12 minutes. Return the shanks to the pan, add the wine, and simmer until the pan is almost dry, about 8 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan and place it in the oven to braise for 1 hour. (If using a separate roasting pan, transfer all contents before placing in oven.) Turn the shanks and cook until the lamb is very tender, about 1 more hour. Remove the pan from the oven and allow the shanks to cool in their cooking liquid.

Transfer the shanks to a plate or bowl and pass the braising liquid through a strainer into a saucepan. Discard the solids. Bring the braising liquid to a simmer over medium-high heat. Skim the fat as it rises. (Alternatively, chill the sauce so the fat hardens on top and can be removed.) Reduce the braising liquid to about 2 cups of sauce, approximately 15 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Return the shanks to the cooking pan. Pour the sauce over the shanks and reheat in the oven, basting with sauce frequently. Serve the shanks on a platter or in large bowls topped with sauce.

Broccoli:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cut off the stem of broccoli so as not to detach or separate the florets. Discard the stem. Plunge the head of broccoli into the boiling water and cook for about 30 seconds after the water returns to a boil. Drain the broccoli, then shock it under cold running water. Pat the broccoli dry with paper towels. Cut the head lengthwise into four equal-sized portions and set aside.

Vinaigrette:
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium flame. Add the onion, pear, and curry powder; season with the salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.

Add the vinegar and white wine, and cook, still over medium heat, reducing the liquid until the pan is almost dry, about 10 minutes. Add the apple cider and simmer over low heat until the flavors blend, 5 minutes more. Place the contents of the pan in a blender and purée on medium speed for 1 minute. With the blender still running, add the 1/2 cup oil in a slow stream. The vinaigrette should be smooth and creamy; if necessary, thin it with additional apple cider. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper to taste, pass it through a fine strainer, and reserve at room temperature until ready to use.

Assembling:
Prepare a charcoal grill and position the rack 4 to 6 inches above medium-high heat. Place the quarters of broccoli head in a large mixing bowl along with 1 tablespoon of oil, the salt, and pepper; toss gently to coat the broccoli. Grill the broccoli for about 8 minutes, turning the pieces so they are lightly charred on all sides.

Pool about 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette on each of four plates; place one portion of broccoli on each plate, and serve warm. As an optional garnish, shave some Pecorino Romano on top of each portion at the table.

Crabmeat Toasts:

Prepare the toasts
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Arrange the slices of bread on a baking sheet; drizzle them with hazelnut oil, then sprinkle them lightly with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven until they are crisp and golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, allow to cool to room temperature, and set aside.

Prepare the crab salad and assemble the toasts
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and cook until they are just tender, about 5 minutes for large, fresh peas, or 1 minute for frozen. Drain the peas, refresh them under cold running water, and drain again well.

Combine the crabmeat, peas, celery salt, and hazelnut oil in a bowl. Add about 1/4 cup mayonnaise and mix gently to coat the crabmeat with the mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange the toasts on a serving dish or tray. Spoon about 1 heaping tablespoon of pea-crab salad onto each toast, garnish with dill, tarragon, and celery leaves, and serve.

Champagne Mayonnaise:
Place the shallots, garlic, egg yolk, vinegar, honey, and lime juice in the jar of a blender. Turn the blender on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until the ingredients are well combined. With the blender still running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream, and continue to run the blender until the mixture attains the consistency of a light mayonnaise. (The mayonnaise can also be made by hand-whisking it in a bowl.) Season to taste with salt and pepper, transfer to a glass or other non-reactive container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use (up to 24 hours).

Crisps:
Prepare the crisps Preheat the oven to 350°F.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out (or trim, as necessary) each egg roll wrapper until it is about 4 inches square. Brush both sides of each wrapper with melted butter. Lay the squares on two large baking sheets (alternatively, work in batches). Sprinkle each square generously with sugar and bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Set aside at room temperature

Place the raspberries in a large bowl. Add the 1/4 cup of honey and mix gently. Allow the raspberries to macerate for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to release their juices.

Place the crème fraîche in a mixing bowl and whisk until it forms soft peaks. Combine the yogurt with the 2 teaspoons of honey, and fold the mixture into the crème fraîche.

Place one crisp, sugared side up, in the center of each of six dessert plates. Spread a generous tablespoon of yogurt cream on each crisp, followed by a generous tablespoon of macerated raspberries. Repeat this process two more times to form alternating layers of raspberries and honey yogurt. Place a final crisp on top of each layer of raspberries. Dust each dessert with confectioners' sugar, garnish each plate with a light drizzle of basil oil (if using), and serve.

Basil Oil:
Place the basil, mint, and oil in a blender and purée for 2 minutes. Place the mixture in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat immediately, allow to cool to room temperature, strain through a coffee filter, and store in a covered jar or bottle in the refrigerator until ready to use.